PlantAmerica's Plant Care Sheet

Conditions:

Fall Color

Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant-and the acidity of the chemicals present-leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash growing in areas where limestone is present turn purplish-blue.
Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather actually has nothing to do with it. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. With reduced flow comes diminished chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Diseases:

Blight

Blight is a non-scientific term for a variety of leaf disorders caused by fungal or bacterial agents that result in rapid spotting or wilting. Most blights are host-specific, meaning they only infect specific plant families. Due to the wide variety of causes, correct identification is critical before attempting to treat the condition.

Fungi:

Rusts

Most rust is host specific and overwinters on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it leaves a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.
Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant. The most successful fungicide will be one that contains propiconazole.

Leaf Spots

These brown or black spots and patches (ragged or circular, with water soaked or yellow-edged appearance) can be caused by a variety of bacteria and fungi. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or people can spread bacteria.

Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves, water plants at the base, and avoid spraying foliage when watering. Use sulfur spray on woody plants in winter.

How-tos:

Repot

Now is the time to repot.

Cut Flowers

Flowers suitable for cutting maintain their form for several days, when properly conditioned and placed in water or a soaked oasis. A cut flower should have a fairly strong, long stem, which makes it easy to work with in arrangements. There are many short stem flowers that make good cut flowers too, but they look best when floated in a bowl or clustered and placed in a juice glass size vase.

For best results, always cut flowers early in the morning, preferably before dew has had a chance to dry. Always make cuts with a sharp knife of pruners and plunge flowers or foliage into a bucket of water. Store in a cool place until you are ready to work with them. This will keep flower from opening. Always re-cut stems and change water frequently.

Deadheading

Deadheading is the removal of spent flowers. Flowers are pinched off snipped with pruners. Deadheading encourages repeated blooming and reduces the likelihood of disease and pests. Rather than throwing pinched flowers on the ground, keep the site clean by putting them in the compost pile, if they are disease- and pest-free.

Fertilizing Young Plants

Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage root development. A starter fertilizer such as 6-18-6 or sterilized bonemeal helps satisfy this need. Apply recommended amount for plant per lable directions at time of planting or at least during the first growing season. Phosphorus does not ”move” in the soil like nitrogen or potassium, therefore most fertilizers have lower middle numbers. The second growing season, switch to a 16-4-8 or other comparable fertilizer with a 4:1:2 ratio.

Fertilizing Established Plants

Established plants benefit from a yearly fertilization. If you have a sandy soil, fertilizing twice per year may be in order. Apply a 16-4-8 or 4:1:2 fertilizer according to label directions, but do not forego the soil test. Organic mulches greatly benefit all plants, keeping roots cool, weed down, moisture in, and enriching the soil. Never fertilize just before frost; this encourages new growth that will be burned by cold weather. The safest time to fertilize is early spring or when you know that new growth will not suffer damage from late frost.

Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials

Annuals and perennials may be fertilized with either water-soluble, quick release fertilizers, temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers, or organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are used every 2 weeks or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow lable directions as they may vary per product.

Preparing Garden Beds

Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of soil prior to beginning. This helps determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where water remains standing. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
At 7-10 days before planting, add 2-4 in. of manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility. If soil composition is weak, add a layer of topsoil as well. Whether sand or clay, soil can be improved by adding ample organic matter. Work deep into the soil. Prepare beds 18 in. deep for perennials. This considerable effort will pay off later. It’s a bigger job once plants have become established.

Planting Bulbs

Plant bulbs at a depth that is three times their height, and at least 1-1/2 bulb-widths apart. Work a little bone meal fertilizer into the bottom of your hole, and then place the bulb in upright. The more pointed end is almost always the top. If you have trouble telling which is the top, look for evidence of where a stem or roots were last year, failing that, plant them sideways. Fill in with soil gently, making sure there are no rocks or clods that would impede the bulb’s stem. When planting a great number of bulbs, dig out an area to the specified depth, place bulbs and replace soil. This ensures that ground has been properly prepared and bulbs are evenly spaced.

Plant bulbs in natural drifts rather that formal rows: bulbs can fail or be eaten, leaving holes in a formal arrangement, or will shift with freezing and thawing. If you have trouble with gophers or squirrels eating your bulbs, try sprinkling red pepper in the holes, covering the bulbs with chicken-wire, surround bulbs with sharp shards of gravel or other substance, or planting rodent-repelling bulbs like Fritillaria nearby.

Pinching and Thinning Perennials

Merely planting a perennial does not assure years of maintenance-free gardening. Perennials need care, just like any other plant. One thing that distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to be thinned out occasionally or they loose vigor.
As perennials establish, they require occasional pruning back and thining out. This prevents them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and increases air circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.
Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead plants; that is, remove spent flowers before they form seed. This prevents plants from seeding all over the garden and conserves the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.
As perennials mature, they may form dense root masses that eventually sap vigor. Occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. Divide the root system, making new plants to plant in another area of the garden or to give away. This root pruning will also stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall, with fall being the favorite because roots are allowed to develop without producing food for growing tops during the winter dormancy period.

Planting Perennials

Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop without competing with developing top growth as in spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established one gallon sized container.

To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water plants thoroughly and let excess water drain before carefully removing from containers. Carefully loosen the root balls and place the plants in holes, working soil around the roots as you fill. For extremely root bound plants, gently separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are OK, but keep to a minimum. Continue filling in soil, then water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.
To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift each seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

Selecting and Storing Bulbs

Larger bulbs will have larger, healthier plants. Bulbs that are small for their species type will have small or no flowers the first year, but may pick up in their second year. Daffodils with two points will have two flower stalks if both bulb parts are large enough.

Select bulbs that have intact skins or “”tunics””. These plants are less vulnerable to disease. When buying bulbs with split tunics, look for areas that appear diseased on the flesh of the bulb. It’s much like shopping for onions. Some smaller bulbs, like Lily of the Valley (Convallaria) or Snowdrops (Galanthus), will establish better if you can buy them when they’re in leaf, instead of dry bulbs.

You should plant your bulbs as soon as you can. You have purchased them in a dormant period, and you want them in the ground when they come out of it. If you can’t plant your bulbs right away, store them in a dark, cool, dry place. Gasses given off by fruit can cause bulbs to rot; keep this in mind if storing your bulbs in a refrigerator. A few bulbs are better stored in slightly damp peat moss or shavings; if your bulb was stored this way when you bought it, continue to store it this way.

Pests:

Slugs and Snails

Slugs and snails favor moist climates and are mollusks, not insects. They can be voracious feeders, eating just about anything that is not woody or highly scented. They may eat holes in leaves, strip entire stems, or completely devour seedlings and tender transplants, leaving behind tell-tale silvery, slimy trails.
Prevention and control: Keep your garden as clean as possible, eliminating hiding places such as leaf debris, over-turned pots, and tarps. Ground cover in shady places and heavy mulches provide protection from the elements and can be favorite hiding places. In the spring, patrol for and destroy eggs (clusters of small translucent spheres) and adults during dusk and dawn. Drop them in a container of kerosene or sprinkle them with salt (not for the squeamish). Set out beer traps from late spring through fall – slugs are suckers for fresh brew and will drown as they greedily drink. Spray adults with a 30% solution of household ammonia.
Some gardeners believe that copper stripping, stood upright like a short fence, will help to protect young vegetables. It is believed that the copper reacts with the slug’s or snail’s slime, causing a shock. Stripping works best if stood upright. Many chemical controls are available on the market, but can be poisonous and deadly for pets; take care when using them as directed by the lable. Slugo is one chemical that works well on slugs and snails and seems to be safe to use around pets.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, causing plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female lays up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.
Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, and tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. Sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Dusting edibles with sulfur kills mites too. Insecticidal soaps can be used, but confirm that it is OK for vegetables prior to spraying. On citrus or ornamentals, spray with horticultural oil such as Sunspray. Insecticides don’t kill mites because mites are not insects. Mitacides must be used, but always verify safety for your ornamental. Never use on food.

Scale Insects

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Tools:

Anvil Pruners

Anvil pruners have a sharp, straight edge upper blade that cuts against a lower, straight edged anvil. Anvil pruners must be kept sharp, or blade will crush stems against the anvil rather than cutting through it. Anvil pruners are relatively inexpensive and can be found in almost any hardware or garden store. Great for cutting soft-stemmed plants.

Garden Knives

It was once said that all good horticulturists carry a pocket knife. Gardening knives offer versatility in that you can do light pruning with them, make cuttings and grafts, harvest fruit, vegetables and flowers, or just cut twine.

General Purpose: Useful for everything but heavy pruning.

Multipurpose: Similar to a Swiss army knife, gadgets galore. The number one gadget, however, should be at least one nice, large blade.

Grafting: Straight blade makes accurate cuts.

Budding: Blade has a projection at the end for pushing open incisions. A must for the bud grafter.

Pruning: Ample, downward curved blade provides control when pruning.

Garden Shears

If you have a hedge, you’ll need to invest in a good pair of shears. For soft-stemmed hedges, a light weight pair is fine, but for larger, woodier hedges, go for a heavy duty pair with nice handles. Shears should be balanced and feel smooth when going through the shearing motion. Though most shears have straight blades, a few have wavy-edges which makes cutting through woody stems easier. Two common shears are:

Standard Shears: Usually straight bladed, with one of the blades having a notched area towards back. The notch helps cradle a thicker stem when cutting.

Single-handed shears: Having a spring mechanism makes these easy to operate with one hand. They should be used only to trim lawns and soft-stemmed foliage such as liriope and mondo grass.

Watering Aides

No gardener depends entirely on natural rainfall. Even the most water conscious garden appreciates the proper hose, watering can, or wand.

Watering Cans

Watering Hose

Sprayers

Sprinklers

Standing spike sprinklers

Rotating sprinklers

Pulse-jet sprinklers

Oscillating sprinklers